Trabzon Kuymak (Mıhlama): A Black Sea Breakfast Classic
On the Black Sea coast, starting the day with a sizzling pan is almost a tradition. A copper dish arrives at the center of the table, filled with a butter-cooked dish whose cheese stretches endlessly, and everyone dips their bread into the same pan. This dish is Trabzon kuymak, also known in many parts of the region as mıhlama. For first-time visitors to Trabzon, kuymak is the easiest and most delicious way to get to know the city's cuisine. In this guide, you'll find out what kuymak is, how it's made, where you can taste it, and what you can do in Trabzon around a kuymak breakfast.
What Is Trabzon Kuymak?
Kuymak is a hot breakfast dish made primarily with cornmeal, plenty of butter and local melting cheese. It looks like a thick fondue; when you scoop it with a spoon, the cheese stretches like string. It originated in the rainy, cool climate of the Black Sea as a high-energy dish that kept people full for hours before heading out to the fields or up to the highland plateaus.
The dish has few ingredients, but the quality of each one makes all the difference. That's why kuymak is directly tied to the region's livestock and highland culture: a good kuymak needs good butter, and good butter needs animals grazing on the highland pastures.
Kuymak, mıhlama or muhlama?
The same dish goes by different names in different corners of the Black Sea region. In Trabzon, both "kuymak" and "mıhlama" are widely used; as you head east toward Rize and Artvin, the pronunciation "muhlama" becomes more common. In some places, the difference in name also reflects a difference in recipe: some cooks prefer a runnier consistency, others a thicker one. Whichever name you see on the menu, you can expect butter, cornmeal and stretchy cheese.
Kuymak Ingredients: Simple Yet Essential
Whether made at home or in a restaurant, the basic ingredients of kuymak are usually:
- Butter: This is the soul of the dish. Butter from Tonya and the highland plateaus is especially famous in Trabzon; using village butter noticeably changes the flavor.
- Cornmeal: One of the cornerstones of Black Sea cuisine. It gives kuymak both its texture and a subtly sweet taste.
- Cheese: Local, low-salt cheeses that melt and stretch are preferred. Black Sea cheeses such as Kolot cheese, or fresh kashar-style cheeses, are commonly used.
- Water or milk: Added in small amounts to adjust the consistency.
- Salt: Very little or none at all, depending on how salty the cheese is.
At some tables, you may also find kavurma (braised meat), sucuk (spicy sausage) or eggs served alongside or mixed into the kuymak. These are not part of the classic recipe but variations that have become popular over time.
How Is Trabzon Kuymak Made?
Making kuymak looks easy, but getting the right consistency takes experience. The general method is as follows:
- Butter is melted over low heat in a wide pan or copper dish.
- Cornmeal is added and toasted, stirring constantly, until it changes color slightly and becomes fragrant.
- A small amount of water (or milk) is added and stirred to achieve a smooth consistency.
- Grated or crumbled cheese is added.
- Stirring continues until the cheese has fully melted and starts to stretch, and the butter separates at the edges.
In the final stage, the butter separating at the edges is the sign that the kuymak has reached the right consistency. The dish is taken off the heat and served immediately, right in its pan. Since the cheese hardens as it cools, kuymak is always eaten hot.
Small tips for the perfect consistency
- Don't turn the heat up high; cornmeal burns quickly and turns bitter.
- Keep stirring after adding the cheese, otherwise it will stick to the bottom.
- If you're using a salty cheese, don't add extra salt.
How Is Trabzon Kuymak Eaten?
Kuymak is a dish meant for sharing. The pan is placed in the middle of the table, and everyone reaches into it with their bread or fork. It's usually served with:
- Stone-oven Trabzon bread or village bread
- Freshly brewed tea (breakfast on the Black Sea is never complete without tea)
- Highland butter, honey, olives and fresh greens
- Boiled or fried eggs
Kuymak is quite filling and rich. It's ideal before a journey or a hike, but it's a good idea to share a portion if you're planning on lunch as well. If you're curious about the other flavors of Trabzon's cuisine, take a look at our guide to what to eat in Trabzon.
Where to Eat Kuymak in Trabzon?
Finding kuymak in Trabzon isn't hard; the real challenge is finding a good one. Since specific businesses can change over time, rather than recommending particular venues, here's where you should look:
- Breakfast spots in the city center: Around Meydan, you'll find plenty of breakfast places serving kuymak from early in the morning.
- Boztepe and viewpoints: At the tea gardens and breakfast venues overlooking the city, you can enjoy kuymak with a view.
- Uzungöl: Almost every restaurant around the lake has kuymak on the menu. A hot pan in the cool lakeside air is a classic part of the Uzungöl experience.
- Highland plateaus: At plateaus such as Hıdırnebi, Kadırga and Sultan Murat, as well as at roadside stops, you can find kuymak made with highland butter.
- The road to Sümela: Trout farms and restaurants toward Maçka and the Altındere Valley also typically serve kuymak.
Prices and opening hours may vary by season; check the latest information before your visit. During the summer season and on weekends, popular breakfast spots fill up early, so it's best to go early.
After Kuymak: Things to Do in Trabzon
Kuymak is a dish made for kicking off a long, active day. Here are a few activity ideas to put that energy to good use:
Lakeside walks and hillside activities at Uzungöl
After breakfast at Uzungöl, you can stroll around the lake and head up to the viewpoints to take photos. In season, activities such as paragliding, zipline and ATV rides are also available in the area. For a guided day out, the Uzungöl Tour is a great option; adrenaline seekers can also check out the ATV Safari activity.
Highland hikes and photography
After enjoying kuymak on the plateaus, the most delightful thing to do is take a short walk through the drifting clouds of mist. Highland houses, grazing animals and flower-filled meadows offer countless shots for photography enthusiasts. With the Hıdırnebi Tour, you can see both the plateau and Çal Cave in a single day. To decide which plateau to visit in which season, our guide to the Black Sea plateaus may come in handy.
Walking and shopping in the city center
If you had breakfast in the city center, you can start at Meydan and stroll along Kunduracılar Street and through the bazaar, browsing local products such as butter, cheese, cornmeal, hazelnuts and tea. For those who want to try making kuymak at home, cornmeal and butter are the most sensible souvenirs to bring back. If you'd like to see the city's highlights in a single day, the Trabzon City Tour offers a convenient solution.
A break at a tea garden
Easing the richness of kuymak with a glass or two of strong tea is a Black Sea habit. The tea gardens at Boztepe or the spots along the coastal road are great choices for sitting back and enjoying the view.
Kuymak's Place in Black Sea Cuisine
Kuymak is one of the dishes that best illustrates how central cornmeal and butter are to Black Sea cuisine. The same two ingredients appear in cornbread, black cabbage soup and many pastries. Because the region's mountainous terrain makes wheat farming difficult, corn has been the staple grain on the table for centuries, while livestock farming and highland culture have made butter and cheese plentiful.
That's why kuymak isn't just a breakfast dish; it's the region's geography reflected on a plate. To discover other classics of Black Sea cuisine, check out our article on the 10 essential flavors of Black Sea cuisine.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are kuymak and mıhlama the same thing?
Generally, yes. Both are made with cornmeal, butter and melting cheese. Both names are used in Trabzon; in some places there may be slight differences in consistency or choice of cheese.
At which meal is kuymak eaten?
Traditionally, it's eaten at breakfast. However, especially in tourist areas and on the plateaus, you can find it on the menu at any time of day.
Is kuymak suitable for vegetarians?
The classic recipe consists of butter, cornmeal and cheese, so it contains no meat. Since there are also versions with kavurma or sucuk, it's worth asking about the ingredients when ordering.
Can I buy kuymak ingredients in Trabzon and make it at home?
Yes. You can find cornmeal, local butter and cheese at the bazaar and markets. Just remember that butter and cheese need to be kept cool during your journey.
What's the best time to eat kuymak at Uzungöl?
The morning hours are both quieter and the most enjoyable time for lake views. During the summer season, it gets busier around midday.
Conclusion
The aroma of butter, stretchy cheese and a glass of strong tea on the side... Trabzon kuymak is a flavor everyone visiting the city should taste at least once. Whether you enjoy it at a breakfast spot in the city center, on the shores of Uzungöl or in a highland house, kuymak tells you the story of the Black Sea's climate, geography and hospitality in a single pan. After breakfast, don't forget to make the most of your day with a hike, a highland trip or a city tour.
