Anchovy Season in Trabzon: A Guide to Hamsili Pilav and Hamsi
On the Black Sea coast, the clearest sign of autumn is the small fish gleaming like silver on the fishmongers' stalls. In Trabzon, hamsi (Black Sea anchovy) is more than just food. It is a shared language of the kitchen, of jokes, of folk songs and of family tables. In this guide, we explain when anchovy season starts in Trabzon, which months are the tastiest, why hamsili pilav holds such a special place, and how to best enjoy hamsi when you visit the city. You'll also find out what to do in Trabzon during anchovy season and how to easily add this local flavor to your travel plans.
Why is hamsi so important in Trabzon?
Hamsi is loved in most cities along the Black Sea coast, but in Trabzon this love has become a matter of identity. For centuries, in this mountainous region with little farmland, the sea was the most reliable source of protein. Plentiful and inexpensive in winter, hamsi became one of the cornerstones of Black Sea cuisine alongside cornmeal and black cabbage (karalahana).
That's why the sheer number of hamsi dishes in Trabzon never fails to surprise visitors. It is known fried, baked with rice, steamed, as fritters, in bread and salted. Locals like to say "hamsi can be cooked forty ways." It may sound like an exaggeration, but in many homes a different hamsi dish really is made almost every week throughout the season.
- Affordable: At the height of the season, it is one of the most budget-friendly seafoods available.
- Seasonal: It isn't available fresh all year round, which makes it a flavor people eagerly await.
- Cultural: References to hamsi turn up everywhere, from Black Sea jokes to folk music.
When is anchovy season? The tastiest months
In Türkiye, the commercial fishing season for hamsi usually opens in early September and closes in spring. The exact dates are set each year by official regulation, so it's worth checking the current fishing period before your visit.
Although hamsi appears on the stalls as soon as the season opens, for the people of Trabzon the real hamsi time comes when the weather turns cold. As the sea cools, the fish grow richer, their flesh becomes plumper and their flavor more pronounced. A quick overview:
- September – October: The start of the season. The fish are usually smaller and milder in taste. A great time to combine with plateau and nature trips.
- November – January: According to many locals, the months when hamsi is at its tastiest. This is also the most popular time for hamsili pilav.
- February – March: Depending on weather and sea conditions, it may still be available, though abundance varies from year to year.
- Summer months: The fishing ban period. Hamsi on menus during these months is mostly frozen.
One thing to keep in mind: on stormy days on the Black Sea, the boats can't go out. During such weeks, hamsi may become scarce at the stalls and prices may rise. If you're planning a hamsi-focused trip, it's wise to leave a few days of flexibility.
Hamsili pilav: The festive dish of Trabzon's table
Hamsili pilav fresh from the oven, served turned out upside down — Photo: E4024, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
Hamsili pilav (anchovy rice) is one of the most labor-intensive and most celebrated dishes of Trabzon cuisine. Rather than an everyday meal, it is associated with tables set for guests, big family gatherings and special occasions.
How is it made?
The heads and bones of the anchovies are removed one by one, and the fish are opened up butterfly-style. The bottom and sides of a greased tray are lined with hamsi. In the middle goes a pilaf of rice, onion, pine nuts, currants, dill, parsley and spices. The top is covered with more hamsi, and the whole thing is baked in the oven. When served, the tray is flipped over to reveal a golden, domed "shell" of anchovies.
Details worth knowing
- Every household's recipe is a little different: some families add cornmeal or corn to the rice, while others use hazelnuts instead of pine nuts.
- Because it takes a long time to prepare, it may not be available at every restaurant every day. Eateries usually make it as a daily special or on advance order.
- It tastes best served hot, when the anchovies around the edges have turned slightly crispy.
If you'd like to discover the city's other regional flavors, our guide to what to eat in Trabzon is a great place to start.
Other Trabzon dishes made with hamsi
Hamsili pilav is the most spectacular, but to truly get to know hamsi in Trabzon, you should try a few different preparations.
Hamsi tava
Black Sea-style hamsi tava, coated in cornmeal and pan-fried — Photo: E4024, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
This is the best-known and most widely available hamsi dish. The cleaned fish are coated in cornmeal, arranged in a fan shape in the pan and fried on both sides. In the Black Sea style, the cornmeal gives the fish both crunch and a subtly sweet flavor.
Hamsi buğulama
For those looking for a lighter option, this dish is cooked in its own juices with tomatoes, peppers and onions. It's a great alternative for children and anyone who doesn't care for fried food.
Hamsi köftesi and hamsi kuşu
For hamsi köftesi, cleaned and minced anchovies are kneaded with cornmeal, onion or leek and parsley, then fried as fritters. Hamsi kuşu is made by flouring and frying deboned, opened-up anchovies; it's a favorite among those who don't want to deal with bones.
Hamsikoli and salted hamsi
Hamsikoli is a type of anchovy bread made with cornmeal and hamsi, known throughout the eastern Black Sea region. Salted hamsi was once the way to preserve fish through the winter, and some households still prepare it today as a meze.
How is hamsi eaten? What goes with it?
A hamsi meal in Trabzon is simple yet distinctive. Whether at a restaurant or a home table, you're likely to find these accompaniments:
- Cornbread: The most classic companion to hamsi.
- Red onion, arugula, radish and lemon: They add freshness that balances the richness of the fried fish.
- Black cabbage or a seasonal salad: Often seen on winter tables.
- Strong brewed tea: Almost always served after the meal.
Small anchovies are usually eaten by hand: hold the fish by the tail, strip the flesh from both sides and pull away the backbone. For first-timers, this method is both easy and fun.
What to do in Trabzon during anchovy season
Anchovy season coincides with the calm, colorful months that follow Trabzon's busy summer. During this time, you can enjoy the food, the city and nature all at once:
- Browse the fish stalls: Seeing the day's catch at the fishmongers in the city center and coastal districts in the morning is the easiest way to experience everyday life on the Black Sea.
- Coastal walks and cycling: On cool but sunny autumn days, the coastline is ideal for walking and cycling.
- Tea and sunset at Boztepe: Sipping tea while looking down over the city after a hamsi lunch is a classic Trabzon experience.
- See marine life up close: For families with children, a visit to the Aquarium is a fun way to get to know the fish of the Black Sea.
- Plateau and valley trips in autumn colors: In October and November, the valleys turn yellow and crimson. We cover the beauty of this season in detail in our article on autumn in Trabzon.
- Photography: Fishing harbors, crates being unloaded from the boats and glistening anchovies on the stalls make for stunning shots in the autumn light.
Common mistakes and local tips
- Expecting fresh hamsi in summer: Fresh hamsi isn't available during the fishing ban. If the hamsi experience matters to you, plan your trip for after September.
- Eating only hamsi tava and leaving: Hamsi tava is available everywhere, while options like hamsili pilav and buğulama are what truly set Trabzon apart.
- Not knowing how to spot fresh fish: Fresh hamsi has bright eyes, a firm and shiny body, and vivid red gills. Avoid fish that look dull or feel soft.
- Not accounting for stormy days: When sea conditions are poor, hamsi may be hard to find. Keeping your schedule flexible makes things much easier.
- Leaving souvenir shopping until the last day: Along with hamsi, Trabzon butter, hazelnuts and other regional products are also fresh in autumn, so take your time with your shopping.
Enjoy the taste of hamsi with Sümela Tur
Many visitors who come to Trabzon for a short stay want to see its historical and natural attractions while also tasting the local flavors. However, planning where to go each day and where to stop takes time. The easiest way is with our tours departing from Trabzon: while you enjoy the scenery and the food, we take care of the route, timing and traffic.
- Trabzon City Tour: As you explore the city's landmarks with a guide, you can ask our guide for local food recommendations at the stops along the way.
- Uzungöl Tour: The route follows the coast before heading into the valley. Along the way, you'll see the fishing culture of the coastal districts (for details, see our Sürmene guide).
- Sümela Tour: The autumn colors of the Altındere Valley and the Sümela Monastery are at their most beautiful during anchovy season.
Our group tours are affordably priced, and with our private tour option featuring a private vehicle and driver for your family or group of friends, you can set times and stops more flexibly. All our tours are guided and insured.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best month for hamsi in Trabzon?
Although the season usually opens in September, the fish are known to be at their plumpest and tastiest from November to January, when the weather turns cold. October, meanwhile, is a lovely time to combine hamsi with autumn scenery.
Do your tours include a meal break?
Our day tours include breaks as part of the itinerary. What's included in the price varies by tour; you can find the current itinerary and included services on the relevant tour page or via our WhatsApp line.
Can I book a private tour for my family?
Yes. We organize private tours with a dedicated vehicle and driver for your family or group. With this option, the start time and stops can be planned flexibly to suit your needs.
What time do tours start and where do they depart from?
Our tours depart from Trabzon and usually start in the morning. The exact departure time and meeting point vary by tour and date, so they are provided at the time of booking.
How can I make a reservation?
You can book online through our tour pages or contact us via our WhatsApp line 0532 170 91 54 or our office number 0462 321 08 03.
Conclusion
In Trabzon, hamsi is the most heartfelt way to get to know the city through its food. From the season's opening in September to the tastiest days of winter, hamsi tava, buğulama and especially hamsili pilav capture the spirit of Black Sea cuisine. If you'd like to time your trip with this season and pair these flavors with valleys, plateaus and historical sites, you can enjoy it all hassle-free on our guided tours departing from Trabzon.
